It was a very sad week this week. The last week of lessons
at Le Cordon Bleu, but we finished on a showstopper, so it wasn’t all bad!
Monday morning we had a demo, it was our second week of
sugar, so more boiling hot vats of syrupy caramel! This week was focused on the
croquembouche, a tower of profiteroles sat on a nougatine base and topped with a
pulled sugar rose. The nougatine is cooked to a higher temperature than we have
ever used anything before – something like 180°C, and we had to work with it almost
as soon as it was poured out of the pan. Great. The chef quickly made some
choux buns and then got to work on the nougatine. Once all that was shaped the
base was assembled and piped with royal icing, very delicate hanging arcs of
icing. He them promptly exclaimed that this would be our hardest practical
lesson yet, so much for easing us gently into the exam!
We got straight into the kitchen and got the choux buns
done, I’m pleased to say my piping has improved considerably since we first did
choux pastry work, way back in basic term. I got a nice consistent batch of
choux buns that baked well. Someone across the bench from me had added too much
egg to the choux batter and it was too sloppy to pipe. So when the chef’s back
was turned I passed her my piping bag, which was still half full with leftover
mixture. I’ve grown very fond of everyone in the class over the term and we’re
a team, so I’m happy to do anything to help any of them out when they need it.
We didn’t get seen, so it was all good! Next up was the nougatine, the sugar
was cooked up to ridiculous heights and then the flaked almonds were added, it
was turned out and then I gloved up and got to work folding it to cool it a
bit. I was dreading working with it, I thought burns would be imminent! However
it was quite nice to work with, I got it rolled out nice and thin and shaped in
the tin before it set. The only slight hiccup was the curved triangles we had
to make, to stick to the outside. I’d got the strip rolled out thin again and
the triangles were a nice shape (I’d half cut them through as the chef said, to
save time shaping each one, which could cause the rest of the nougatine to
become too cold and brittle to work with). However after shaping them, I tried
to snap them off the strip and discovered I hadn’t cut them through enough so
they weren’t snapping as perfect triangles. Arse. They went back in the oven to
soften so I could cut them again, unfortunately I had a bimbo moment and put
them on the ungreased side of the tray, so being sticky sugar, they stuck and
wouldn’t come off the tray in the nice thin shape I’d got them. Bugger. The
nougatine mass went back in the oven to soften and I rolled it out again and
this time made sure I cut them all the way through and shaped them very quickly.
It was second time lucky! We then made another caramel and set about sticking
the triangles onto the base.
When the base was fully assembled it was time to pipe the
hanging royal icing arcs between the curved triangles. This is some seriously
fiddly shit, let me tell you. My piping could have been finer however they
held, so I took that as a victory! Then everything was packed away very gently
ready for full assembly in the next lesson.
Tuesday morning we were only in for a demo, showing us how
to finish and assemble the croquembouche. The chef did a really beautiful job, and I
hope I can get close to being that good one day, it’s something to strive hard
for. It was strange knowing this would be the last demo class, it’s a real privilege
to watch the chefs do what they do best and I’m seriously going to miss it. But
there was also cause to celebrate; it was my last 4am alarm call!!! Those I
will not miss one bit at all!...Having said that however, I intend to email the
chef and offer my services to assist on more short courses in the future, as an
alumnus, which could most likely involve the odd 4am wake up call – I only put
myself through it because I love it there so much!
Wednesday, after a morning at work, we had the afternoon in
the kitchen assembling the croquembouche and making another pulled sugar rose.
I have to confess to really enjoying the pulled sugar work, much much more than
I thought I would. If the opportunity to do it in the future arises I’ll be
certain to snap it up. It was hot work because we used isomalt (a sugar
substitute) instead of the sugar syrup this time and you cook this to a
slightly higher temperature. Luckily I managed to avoid any burns! I also
avoided dipping my fingertips in the caramel while dipping the choux buns, thank
Christ! The last thing I want is a sugar burn! I remember dipping choux buns a
term or two back, when we made the St Honoré tart, looking back I was nervous
and made a right hash of it, this time I was a lot more confident and efficient
doing it. Its moments like that you realise how far you’ve come on the course!
I got the croquembouche assembled and even had time to
practice my very first pulled sugar ribbon, a far cry from the chefs
masterpiece! However for a first go I was happy – as was the chef! In fact I
got great comments from the chef, he even followed me out of the room after the
class and asked what I was planning to do after the course. I told him I was
planning on going back to work full time while I decide what to do. He told me
to keep in touch and that’d he’d keep a look out for things for me, which I
really appreciate. Its really nice they want to look out for you and help you
out and I’m very grateful.
Friday morning I had to get up and dash into London because
it was portfolio deadline day. All that work finally handed in and out of the
way! (I’ve secretly enjoyed it in a strange way). I finished it Wednesday
evening, however due to work on Thursday I couldn’t make it into London until
the Friday.
And that’s that. No more teaching lessons at Le Cordon Bleu,
I can’t even begin to describe my devastation, I’ve loved it so much I want it
to continue, but all good things must come to an end I guess! However it means
next week is final exam week. A 4 hour kitchen practical and the theory exam,
luckily the debrief for the kitchen exam is on Friday, so we don’t need to be
fretting over the weekend. A lot of this weekend is going to be practicing my
entremets for the exam, fingers crossed! One last push and I’ll be able to
graduate with immense pride!
My finished croquembouche! Who'd have thought, 9 months ago, I'd be making something like this!! I'm very proud of this.
A close-up of the pulled sugar rose and ribbon. I really enjoyed making this and would love to pull sugar again!
The last learning lesson in the kitchen as Group B, it's been a brilliant term with these guys, we've made a great team!
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